In Chris’ vintage buying guide (pinned to the top of our page) he warns about certain brands as being particularly susceptible to being “fakes” or frankenwatches, especially if bought from Asian sellers. And here I was on a Saturday morning, with two of one of these brands in my hands and the certainty that one was going home with me. Both dated to the 1960’s, in my sweet spot for vintage style. One had a darker silvered dial (Chris has a Hales that exemplifies this style) and the other was lighter with an OEM bracelet. Those darker silver dials are hard for me to coordinate with straps. This one came on a black leather strap. I would struggle to figure out what else to do with it. So, I passed on to the one with the bracelet. The bracelet fit and so I took a bill out of my wallet. That’s it. It was 30 seconds of analysis: done and done. So much for following the Guide.
How did I find myself in this situation? Careful planning, that’s how. I have been wanting to shed some Speidel expandible watch bands from some watches. When the bands were installed decades ago the jewelers used shoulderless spring bars. My tools and technique were not up the task. Besides, if I screw up and hurt myself or my watch, I will be angry at myself. If someone else did it at least I can defer the blame. I took two watches to my watchmaker to have him pop them off. That gave me an excuse to look in the “box”.
The “box” is where they put all of the watches not fit for the display cabinet. It is usually filled with Skagen and Fossil watches, but there have been some gems. There is an Omega Constellation, pie pan, with unfortunate dial damage. The good watches only last a few days. I am not the only one who knows about the “box”. I nearly bought a Lucerne jump hour, but it was one of those cheap eight jewel movements, and I am holding out for a Benrus or Elgin jump hour. And that’s how I bought a Favre-Leuba Harpoon.
Favre-Leuba died in the 1970’s. It was resuscitated and is now on life support now under the Titan (Tata) umbrella of brands. It was purportedly the second oldest Swiss watch brand, but all brands can’t be exactly trusted in this regard. The Harpoon was a skin diver of sorts. Here is an ad demonstrating its watch resistance.
Two things sold me: the branded bracelet and the hidden crown. My watchmaker thinks the bracelet is original. I wouldn’t put my life on that proposition, but it is a vintage Favre-Leuba bracelet. The RA on the dial tells me that the watch was made prior to 1967. My best guess is 1964 or 1965. I have only found one hidden crown version for sale on the internet at a Dutch auction site and it was in rough shape. I found a few Harpoon II for sale but those have a more conventional crown.
The box allows me to check a brand off the list without the worry of a repainted and re-cased brightly colored imitation Favre-Leuba coming into my collection from points East. I have eliminated two more expandible bands. I wonder what will be in the box next time?
The Escapement Room 
I want to chastise you, but it is difficult. I do not believe I have seen many unmolested F-L watches, but at the same time, I guess I dropped out of seriously considering one. This Harpoon, however, is quite charming. Regardless of how it is put together, it is a charming little package. Perhaps a takeaway, and what should always be the end goal, is if the watch satisfies the brief of the buyer then who are we to judge.
LikeLike
I think that I got a real one. The dial has imperfections. It doesn’t look like it was assembled from the carcasses of many watches. The tiny crown only fits this case. It has an odd case-back that was repeated on the one from the Dutch auction site.
I have a harder time believing that the bracelet is period, however. It is too nice.
LikeLike