I’m a picky watch enthusiast, and as such, I’ve found a few brands that I would not buy. This isn’t going to be the generic “name a bunch of crappy fashion watch brands and toss Hublot in too” list, as these are the real watch brands that I avoid. As a forward, everything that I’m about to say comes from my mind, and are my own opinions. You may consider these to be “hot takes”, but know that I do believe in what I’m saying.
Brands
I’ve picked 4 brands for this article. I’ve got personal experience with all of them, and have owned watches from one of the brands myself. My opinions are formed from my taste, but also my experiences with the brands, and seeing others’ experiences with the brands.
I’ll probably make a lot of you angry with the list. If I did, please direct that into the comment section at the bottom of the page! Note: Any watch photos that I use that were not taken by me come from the websites of the respective manufacturers.
Seiko
Opening up with Seiko (one of the most liked watch brands), might seem like lunacy. However, if you’re in the know, you know that Seiko’s quality, quality control, and value have been slipping over the last decade.

I bought my first Seiko watch last year, and it was a nightmare purchase. I bought an Arnie, which arrived to me in a defective state. The watch is a solar quartz one, but any exposure to sunlight would reset it. I started the warranty process (immediately, mind you), and Seiko charged me to fix it. When I got it back, it was still defective. Another trip back to the repair center, and they ended up just mailing me a different watch.
That experience was with my first Seiko, and it killed the brand for me. Aside from buying something vintage, I don’t think I’ll ever own another Seiko. Factor in the QC issues with the brand (movement issues, poorly finished dials and indices, and fitment of bezels and cases), along with the poor value (gimme some sapphire), I don’t see a reason to buy new Seiko anymore. I’m not a Citizen lover, but they bring the value that Seiko used to have.
Christopher Ward
Christopher Ward is a very hyped-up watch brand. Going from microbrand to an independent small brand is cool, and they’ve got pretty good brand-to-community interactions. Sure, the brand is trying out some new design choices with movements. That deserves some merit. However, many of their designs do nothing for me.

I hate integrated bracelet watches, and that may be their most popular model. I’ve tried many (including CW’s), and they are a style that I have never liked. The Twelve is something that I’ve also never liked, and never will. On top of that, the Bel Canto is such a gimmick watch. How about nearly 4 grand USD for an ugly watch that has a pathetic chime? Any takers? The C12 Loco is an ugly timepiece too.

The biggest watch sin for me, is when a watch is not very legible. The Bel Canto, C12 Loco, and many models of the standard Twelve have poor legibility. Throw that in with the ugly designs, and I’m fine writing off the brand in my collection.
I don’t dislike the C60 Trident, but for the money, I’d rather have something from Doxa or Zodiac. CW is a brand that I can appreciate in some ways, but not with many of the watch designs themselves.
Cartier
Cartier is a jewelry company that makes watches. I think that most people know this, but a lot don’t too. The Tank may be a cool watch, but the JLC Reverso is that watch, but cooler.

I’ve been unimpressed with the build quality and specs of every Cartier that I’ve handled, and the high prices only reinforce that. I also find the designs of many of their watches to be, frankly, quite ugly. That may be sacrilege, but I’m happy to put the sword to the watch-world’s sacred cows.

I’ve never liked the Santos, think that the Tank was done better by other companies, and find all of the non-rectangular watches to be hideous. Cartier is just a fancy fashion watch brand, and that may hurt you to hear that.

Grand Seiko
I’ve always found Grand Seiko to be a dull brand. People will flock to the intricate dials, high polish, and the spring drive movement, but none of that matters to me if the presentation of the watch is boring. I’ve not seen a GS watch that makes me feel excited. To me, GS looks conservative to a fault, kind of like a boring, Japanese version of Rolex (which is a boring brand unto itself). However, swinging the opposite way, they have some really out-there, ugly watches too.

Yes, the dials on a lot of the GS watches are good looking. However, a lot of them have crap date positions (4-4:30 looks horrible and is not very usable) or a massive power reserve meter on the dial. You ever look at your watch and wish that it had a fuel gauge on it? Not me.

Rounding out the gripes, the middling quality control from GS these days is reason enough for me to avoid the brand. I’ve heard enough horror stories about spring drive movement failures and issues, and how much of a pain that it is to get those watches serviced.
The Verdict
These are the 4 watch brands that I won’t buy. There are a lot more than that, but these were the first 4 that sprang to mind when the idea for this article came up.
If you’d like to check out my other works for The Escapement Room, follow this hyperlink. I can also be found at PrimerPeak, YouTube, and WatchCrunch.
Love a good fiery take. Wait what? GS and Seiko are getting burned?!?! Nooooooo! My experience with the brand is full spectrum. From the best of any watches in the entirety of Watchlandia, down to something not too dissimilar from your Arnie Hell.
Without getting into too much detail – if you have problems with low end Seiko you at the mercy of your countries service center, which in the case of Canada (and perhaps the US) is horrid.
GS and higher end Seiko (made, by hand, by the same guys that make the highest end watches the company makes and employ nationally certified and awarded professionals) are a dream to own.
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Choose a watch with a 6L, 8L or 5R movement from a gray market or second hand seller, priced in the 1700 to 4k range. It will exceed the quality of watches that cost 10k from Switzerland.
My most worn watches (despite a large number of more expensive watches) are a Seiko LX diver and a SNR Presage enamel dial. They are so good!! Right now Exquisite has an SLA053 , a 8L35 diver on sale for $1650. It would blow you away and you’ll probably never need to own a nicer diver at any price.
https://www.beansandbezels.com/reviews/seiko-prospex-sla053/
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I know that high-end Seiko and GS can make a good watch. I’ve just not found one that I liked enough to want to buy, or want to play the QC lottery. Plus, I’d hate to mail a watch back to Japan for servicing.
I’m glad that you like yours and that the experience has been good so far! The joy in the hobby comes from all of our different perspectives and experiences!
As a spoiler, the next watch article is also Seiko-related…
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Speak that truth! Seiko has long been dead to me, GS prices have gone full stupid as have CWs. CW seems confused as to their brand direction. Have always thought Cartier labeled watches were ugly and way overpriced. I will add to your list of brands I won’t buy: Doxa (no one would give two sh*ts about the brand if it weren’t for the Clive Cussler novels), Invicta (too many reasons to list), Panerai (honking big and goofy) among many more brands.
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I’ve never read a Cussler novel (they always seemed like a bit of too much pulp for me), but I do like Doxa. I’ve been impressed by the ones that I’ve seen in person, and could see a 600T Sharkhunter in my future. That said, I could have bought one at any point, and here I am Doxa-less.
Thanks for the comment Travis!
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The Seiko criticisms hurt but I cannot rebut them!
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It’s really sad that the company has let the quality drop this far.
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